European Show Report:
Maison&Objet, LaBiennale, 100% Design
Beginning in late August, the international design tribe begins its regular migration—Frankfurt, Paris, Brussels, London, High Point—with various stops in between. A cycle of shows and new product launches, crammed into a frantic six-to-eight week period that is, amazingly, often just a teaser for the even more crowded show season that starts up again in January. This brief report, featuring new looks from Paris and London, offers a hint, in the gnomic manner of fashion editors, of what’s to come next season.
Black is the New Black
Design has had a richly colored, highly saturated point of view for several years now, while black was treated as a heavy, dated design statement. But over the past few seasons, first in variations of the classic pairing of black and white, and then with increasing frequency on its own, black has been making a quiet comeback. And the September shows demonstrated just how important black has become.

Maison&Objet: Andrea Dall’Olio
Trend forecaster, creative director, design consultant—Andrea Dall’Olio is experienced in many aspects of fashion and interiors, working for an international roster of brand-name clients. This year, however, he decided to do more than advise, direct, and consult; he wanted to create. His collection of lamps, cushions, frames and other accessories is deeply linked to the Italian tradition of mixing art, craft, and fashion, particularly noticeable in jet beading so delicately embroidered that it appears to be lace.
www.aadesignstudio.it

La Biennale: Declercq Passementiers
Following the lead of many successful fashion lines, Declercq introduced several new limited-edition lines of trims and tassels, ranging from classic, to playful, to contemporary, including Diademe—hand-made black silk tassels embellished with square-cut Swarovski crystals.
www.declercqpassementiers.fr

100% Design: Johnny Egg
Johnny Egg is a British custom furniture designer and manufacturer. His typical work can be described as quietly luxurious contemporary, but many of his introductions at 100% Design showcased a more glam esthetic. On one wall was a large vintage framed mirror completely covered in brilliant purple flock, while an elegant polished wood, glass, and steel console table featured hidden pull-out drawers in lime-green flock. But the centerpiece was a twisting, spinning chiffonier, its mirrored surface reflecting every bit of light in the stand and each drawer upholstery in a different, brilliantly colored flock. A slightly more subtle version is this three-drawer chest in a black-mirror finish with shocking pink flock.
www.johnnyegg.com
Toile is Hip
A design classic, toile is perennially popular with a certain set but in recent years it has become a go-to motif among many cutting-edge designers. The easily identifiable look of single-color scenes set as a generous repeat on a solid ground, gave designers both the structure and the space necessary for play. The result has been some fresh, funny, shocking, and surprising variations on this well-recognized standard.

Maison&Objet: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
French fashion agitator Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was the featured designer in the scènes d’intérieur section of Maison&Objet. He put camouflage on a gilded Louis chair, used teddy bears to make his version of a fur coat and subverts symbols and identities of all sorts for his own use. Toile de Jouir, or fabric to enjoy, is his version of Toile du Juoy—the familiar blue on white, the stylized setting, the widely spaced repeat all in place—but with a loose, cartoony energy and a thoroughly modern sensibility.
www.jc-de-castelbajac.com

Maison&Objet: K-Lou Design
Pascal Risbourg approached toile from another direction, taking the once formal aristocrats of classic toiles and putting them in a state of déshabillé–a slightly naughty version of the chase scene. His newly introduced toile is already available in wallpaper, bed linens, cushions, and small handbags.
k-lou.design@neuf.fr

Maison&Objet: Mat&Jewski
There are several versions of this pop-art colored toile in the Mat&Jewski line, all using different, classical renderings of people, ships, scenes, foliage and other standard toile design elements in bizarrely mixed repeats. The newest approach for the company is to take loosely rendered contemporary urban scenes and highlight elements in the same florescent palette.
www.matejewski.com
Old is the New New
Mining the past has always been a designer’s prerogative, but now many more companies are opening their archives to young, outside designers, hoping to encourage fresh, innovative new products. The success of Swarovski, Cole & Son, and others has not been lost on many long-established companies whose current repertoire has grown stale.

La Biennale: Ippodo
The ancient Japanese art of raden—in which thin slivers of shell and mother-of-pearl are applied to wood and lacquered furniture—was the inspiration for Ippodo, a Japanese company with a long history of innovative decorative techniques. After almost a decade of research and trials, the company developed Kiraori, a process through which mother-of-pearl threads can be used as fill yarns in decorative textiles. The result, when seen in person, is a subtle, luminous shimmer unlike any other fabric available.
www.planup.co.jp

100% Design: Watts Contemporaries
Watts of London was founded in 1874 by three late-Victorian architects. Today its opulent fabrics, trims, and wallpapers are in great demand for both period restorations and among those who love the exuberant, over-the-topness of many of its designs. But it is a decidedly period design company. Watts Contemporaries was established earlier this year, using patterns and accents from the Watts archives in a more modern context. Natasha Askaroff has worked with well-known British designer Andrew Tanner on a range tableware, glassware, and ceramics. Most striking is probably the Frieze collection, using motifs drawn from the Holy Trinity Church, Sloane Square, and a project of the founders. The white bone china pieces are embellished with flowing motifs in 22-karat gold.
www.wattscontemporaries.co.uk

Maison&Objet: Lladró
Best known for its collectible figurines, Spanish ceramic company Lladró opened its extensive archives to German ceramic designer Bodo Sperlein. He convinced them to move beyond re-issuing and was allowed to design new originals for the company by using fragments from its historical collections in completely innovative fashions. Dubbed Re-Cyclos Magical, the new line includes a string curtain of medallions from the Talismania collection, a chandelier that features hundred of fairies, slightly surrealistic horse head wine decanter stoppers, and dozens of other truly magical reinventions.
www.lladro.com